pruning an apple tree
Apple: Scientific name: Malus domestica.
Family of the Rosaceae (rose family) and related to the peer.
Origin: Europe and West Asia
Alkmene, Court-Pendu Rouge, Delcorf, Discovery, Ecolette Godivert, Grenadier, Gris Braibant, Holsteiner Cox, Jacques Lebel, James Grieve, Joseph Musch, la paix, Lena, Otava, Pilot, Pinova, Radoux, Rajka, Reanda, Reglindis, Reinette, Relinda, Rewena, Rubinola, Rubin Step, Santana, Boskoop, Sterappel, Vanda, ...
Flowering and pollination:
Is mainly pollinated by insects. Optimal cross-fertilization that gives many fruits and thicker.
Note: steady production of pollen is primordial for a good fertilization.
Good pollinators are enumerable hard as this really depends on the species planted (s)!
Example: Boskoop ---> pollinator than Alkmene, Delcorf, Discovery, Winston ...
Let bulbs generally have less of frost has good chances of success more
Fruits ripen from August to October off depending on the species.
Method of planting:
stock options are low, half-standard and tall.
possibility espaliered forms e.d.
Stem and half tall (this is mainly used for seedlings). Some rootstock types: M9, M26, MM106, MM111, M2, ... Depending on the rootstock weak to obtain a higher rate. Shows like this often need for some
A sunny spot to partial shade is good for the apple tree.
Respect a north - south direction for maximum light in the crown.
Soil: slightly acid soils are well tolerated, loamy soil is therefore ideal.
And this can occur from November to March. Always keep account of possible frost periods.
If you purchase 2 year old container trees, there are on the whole system a few branches on which we are best pruned back to a maximum of 20 cm and 15 cm for the central leader of the leaders.
Let your first gesteltak start at a distance of at least 1 meter (half standard / tall)
Later hanging fruit will not hang to the ground. Then head up the second and third gesteltak with a minimum of 20 cm provide constructive.
We do this to avoid tearing especially when fruiting. The weight can also greatly
increase at that time.
deflect but can not give faster flower.
Rings of the bark:
This is an issue for older trees that have to be turned into flowering!
Period plays a huge role, it is best to do this also in the first 14 days of July.
How do we proceed?
We take a disinfected pruning knife and cut a strip to the desired height of 5 cm around the tree and remove the bark completely.
What happens in the tree?
The normally assimilates to the roots draw near, as it were to accumulate in the crown now, and go
inevitably make flower buds.
Caution: Never get your fingers on the wound! The wound may optionally afgesmeerd with grafting wax, but given the timing is not necessary.
The real hand carving, will turn itself to branches.
Carving the bark:
How do we proceed?
In mid March a notch applied just above a dormant eye. You may be up to 5 mm deep cutting, which the sap to the crown stops and the branch to start shooting. Layers (jargon) are thus aangepord for espaliered forms.
Reversed, it also works (carving down a branch) for assimilates in the branch store. On this kerfplaatsen buds will arise. But do we do this around the end of April.
Respect the spacing depending on the strain selection.
---> Keep this in account espaliered forms. Cable, usually branched, asymmetric form, suspended boom, palmette, ...
- Low strain: 1.5 to 3 meters away.
- Half tribe: go to 7 meters spacing.
- Standard: go to 12 meters spacing.
Pruning: is from December to March.
pay particular attention:
dead branches ---> prune.
steep branches ---> prune or wedge with softwood
branches that cross ---> prune (barns v / d branches leads to wounds ---> disease).
to remove the central leader converging branches.
long suckers with little buttons -> prune.
down fruit growing timber ---> Delete ---> get no sun!
pruning always with one eye facing out (crown) and the air and light to the chance in the