A peach tree fits in large and small gardens! Curl Disease is a problem with some peach varieties. (Prunus persica).

1. Botanical classification of peaches and nectarines:

One can see the peach (Prunus persica) is generally in two large groups: normal, hairy peach fruit and non-fruit peach hairy or smooth peaches (Nectarine, briool).
There are also crosses of apricot and peach: Apriot, Peachcot, pluot,.

 family onderfamilie

- Family: Rosaceae Rozenfamilie
- Onderfamilie: pruimachtigen Prunoideae-steen fruit-achtigen 


ordinary peach
Scientific name: Prunus persica (syn. P. persica var. Vulgaris, P. vulgaris, Amygdalus persica L.)
Dutch name: Common-peach (peach-haired)
Esperanto: persiko

Prunus persica var. nucipersica (syn. P. persica var. laevis)
Nectarine, Nectarijn (of gladde-perzik) (briool, brugnolen)
Esperanto: nektarino  

Meaning scientific name:

The genus Prunus is an old Latin name of plants with reference to the cherry and plum, plum tree. All stone fruits (plum, peach, apricot, cherry) wear as genus Prunus.
The species designations mean persica Persian; afk.uit Persia (Iran). It was thought that the peach came from Iran or Persia. (According to other sources, the peach however come from China.).
The name vulgare (vulgaris) means general; plain; common.
Nuciperisca has two possible meanings: 1) derived from nudi (naked); hairless skin 2) of nuci (note), a stone as big as a nut
Laevis means smooth or bare; referring to the smooth and bare fruit peel
Read more about the etymological meaning and explanation of Latin plant names: "ABC of Latin plant. Meaning of botanical names"


2. Peach trees make high demands on the plant site

- Peach trees grow best in a well drained soil, which is not very sensitive to late spring frosts.

- Peach trees bear not too cold or wet soils.

- They like to grow in a sunny, warm place.

- Not plants called "frost pockets" (Low plot, where the cold from the environment going down)

- Peach trees are suitable as leif diamond against a wall or fence.

Against one wall is usually nutrient poor soil. Try as extracted soil improvement with some rotted manure or digested VFG compost. The space between the wall (fence) and stem should not be too small. Keep surely 20-25 cm from the wall.
Plant the tree too deep and keep the graft well above the ground.

To keep the soil structure and good regrowth after planting will take you to a mulch layer of rotted manure, compost or mushroom compost (mushroom). This also prevents the soil from drying and improves the soil.



3. Which peach rootstock choose our soil?

- On light soils board is usually a peach seedling as rootstock on. (Prunus persica)

- At slightly heavier or heavier soils board as one rootstock plum rootstock Prunus domestica insititia 'St. Juliën A '.

     Planting distances for peach trees:

Low Strain: 5 x 4 m Rootstock 'St.Julien A'.
Halfstam: 6 x 5 m (St.Julien A) or 8 x 6 m (Seedling)
Tall: 8 x 6 m (Seedling rootstock)
4. Fruit tree pruning the first year:

     Peach Prune at planting

If you buy a peach tree, this will usually annuals geoculeerde tree. After planting you cut off all the young twigs, a few centimeters after. The tree will later slip and nice naturally anticipate. When you eject choose 3 or 4 shoots that are nicely spaced. So do you get 3-4 main branches, which grow wider, with an open crown. The advantage here is that you can benefit from lower later. The regrowth is thus much better.

     Pruning during the summer of the first year of growth

The peach-laterals, which in their turn branch, gives you always rugscheuten away and only the shoots are kept. This drawing is already done in the summer. Also make sure always that the verlengenis only 1 sprig continues, ie, the competitors must remove. See also "Fruit ABC pruning calendar"


5.Rasoverzicht peach acc. Harvest time:

Good peach varieties (types) for our climate, "Rote Ingelheimer '(early)," Reine des Vergers', 'Red Haven' (yellow flesh), 'Charles Ingouf', 'Darling', 'Fertile the Septembre' (late). Also valuable are the varieties 'Johny Brack "(yellow flesh),' Amsden ',' Peregrine '(half-early),' Broechemse 'and' Vaes harvest. A variety known nectarine is "Madame Blanchet. New disease tolerant peach varieties include 'Bénédicte "and" Revita ".


6.Tolerante peach varieties curl disease (leaf mold)     

White-fleshed varieties are, in general, less susceptible than the fleshy yellow varieties.

Perhaps the following varieties somewhat tolerant to this fungal disease:
(Tolerant = little or not susceptible to this disease)
'Avalon Pride'
"Benedicte"
"Reine des Vergers'
'Red Haven'
'Charles Ingouf'
"Gerard"
'Darling' (syn. 'Darling')
"Revita"
"Fertile the Septembre '



The most recommended for rapid regrowth after an attack are "Benedicte" and "Revita".


A remarkable peach is "Sanguine de Savoie, a fleshy red blood peach with deep pink blooms, also suitable as an ornamental tree.

How optimal growth and fruit production obtained?

- January-February: lime spreading. Peach trees like a neutral to slightly calcareous soil.
- February-March: three treatment against fungal disease curl. Once the buds swell and the flower color is visible. Tip! Curl Disease tolerant varieties (Avalon Pride, Benedicte, Revita) do not require treatment.
- March-April: the ground under the tree free of vegetation (grass and / or weeds) make. The tree should mirror during flowering black, closed and humid. There is less damage from spring frosts.
- April: fertilizers (NPK) and give unnecessary branches (without flowers / fruits) prune. Ensure good tree form in which pruning.
- June: fruit thinning and potassium fertilizer on sandy soil a little give.
- June, July and August: the ground around the trunk weekly shallow hoeing or chopping.
- End of August or September: harvest and then rejuvenating pruning. Try young fruiting wood as short as possible to the leaders to obtain.


7. Peach trees and nectarines multiply

There are two possibilities to increase:

- Sowing:

- Grafting and budding:     

Drawing simple pruning apple (low strain)

  

1.Stam (At low strain 40-70 cm long)
2.gesteltakken, carrying branches (branches or fruit), 3.Vruchthout,
4.Verlengenis,
5.Concurrenttwijg,

6.Steil growing branches,
7.Horizontaal growing fruit wood to the leaders,
8.Vruchthout overlooks from fishbone,
9.Rugtwijgen (on top of the branches),
10.Buikhout (bottom of the branches),

11.Snoeien with foot,

12.Snoeien on foot (= directed stub) (New fruiting desired),

13.Horizontaal bending fruit twigs (concrete block),

14.Terugsnoeien too long branch,

15.Terugsnoeien hanging fruit wood,

16.Opslag of the rootstock,

E: graft (10-20 cm above the ground surface)
O.: rootstock
H: central leader

Prune away:
Storage of wild rootstock

- Competitors of extension events

- Too steep implanted or branches.

- Too long fructification pruning back to lower standing against a short twig.

- Depending fruiting wood (wood abdomen)

- Twigs and branches at the top of the branches grow (Rughout)

- Intersecting and abrasive branches

- Leaves affected by canker

- Branches of less than 50 cm are on the trunk or central leader.

- A branch at the top of the tree that is thicker than a branch below. (-> Pruning "on foot")

- Pursue a pyramidal tree shape after which the lower branches enough light.

- A low pedigree too high, it can be pruned to a vruchttak lower state. (For example, a tree of 3 meters can be cut back to a side branch that 2 m above the ground)



NOT insnoeien:

- Extension of Nissen (growing) laterals

- Strong year old twigs to frame or fruiting branches grow.

Thinning pruning:

- Numerous short twigs of 2-20 cm long (Part preserve -> ideal fruiting wood that will bear fruit)



bending:

- Twigs of 20-40 cm to the side of the branches which grow vertically.

- Gestel Leaves and fruit tree that does not grow horizontally. (Do this bend especially in hot weather: from April to August). Before you can bend concrete blocks or rope.

Up binding:

- A weak growing gesteltak bottom of the tree that is deeper than a horizontal position 



Pruning fruit trees. Additional boom parts i.v.m. pruning in apple and pear:

  


1. Rootstock
2. Graft / entknobbel (Vvorm a horse knee)
3. Between Tribe (Such a tree is grafted twice)
4. Storage, storage of wild rootstock
5. Central leader
6. Context or frame (lower laterals + central leader)
7. Herringbone (View of fruiting wood to gesteltak)
8. Fruit Wood (Short branches with flower buds)
9. Head (upper part of a tree)
10. Pants (between central leader and gesteltak, where little sunlight coming)
11. Trace (very short fruiting wood of 1-5 cm)
12. Stekeltwijgje (Short fruiting wood of 6-9 cm long)
13. Ordinary vruchttwijg (brendil) 10-20 (30) cm
14. Greedy twig: 60 cm length (usually useless)
15. Verlengenis
16. Yoke or vergaffeling (Gesteltak seems to split)
17. Competitor (usually to remove)
18. Worn wood (Back Pruning or shortening)
19. Kattenrug (Improper bent twig)
20. Rugtwijg (usually to remove)
21. Buiktwijg / belly wood (usually to remove)
22. Flower bud / bloembot (Remarkably thick buds from which flowers and leaves. Sitting usually on short twigs) 23. Leaf Button (Narrow pointed buds with leaves)
24. Stomp (Remains after a road saws gesteltak or thick fruit wood top. This shall steeply growing rugtwijgen) 25. Targeted stub (Is narrow top and wide bottom. Below arise some weak fruit twigs)
26. Strain (At low strain about 50 cm long)
27. Gesteltak (Must be at low strain apples grow almost horizontally. Is filled with fruit wood herringbone shape.)
28. End Button (This cut away the growth stimulated)
29. Sleeping eye (Lower, almost invisible leaf buds on a twig)

Terminology / jargon for the pruning of fruit trees:

Single tree parts and pruning concepts in pome and stone fruit (pome fruit = apple, pear, quince, stone fruit = plum, peach, apricot)


Rootstock, fruit tree rootstock
This is the part below the graft fruit trees sits.


Storage / storage or wild carrot (basal shoots)
The fruit tree rootstock can shoots / twigs are below the graft union. This game can store the rootstock base or from the roots arise.


Graft, entknobbel (E.)
This is the place where the entras and the rootstock grow together, after finishing (grafting / budding).

Stem, stem length (1)
This is the part of the (fruit) tree from the ground to the implantation of the first / lower draagtak. The stem length can vary widely and depends primarily on the tree. The average stem length is 50 cm (low strain) or 130 cm (half standard) or 180 cm (tall).

Central leader / intermediate branch (H.)
This is the central or branch (vertical) axis of the fruit tree. There is a clear preference to a central leader with gradient. (Ie a gradual decrease in diameter, according to the height of the tree.)


Cup of fruit tree
The "head" is the upper part of the fruit tree. Proper management of the boomkop requires much insight and is important in kopgroeiers (Malus 'Golden Delicious', Pyrus 'Beurre Hardy', 'Doyenne du Comice'). A double header is undesirable and can arise if a competitor long tolerate.


Leaves frame (frame carrying branches or branches) (2)
These are lower, heavy branches (3-5) permanently attached to the central leader / trunk standing. They are thinner than the central leader. In close plant systems, they are very limited in number and length. In extremely dense plantings (cords) are even omitted.



Verlengenis / juices tractor / eindtwijg (4)
This sprig is on the end of a frame or central leader. For small (fruit) tree forms these two concepts (tractor juices and juice-waster) as synonyms. Many people nowadays prefer to speak of verlengenis if the last twig on the end mean.



Competitor (s) (5)
Strong, upright shoots (branches), which just below the verlengenis grow. These bearing implanted twig is almost as long, or longer if the verlengenis (The verlengenis is always higher implanted). If one competitor let alone, he verlengenis the crowd.



Fruit Wood (3)
The fruiting wood bears fruit and is replaced or not, depending on the pruning system. The age (age) depends on the fruit and the fruit variety, eg this year fruiting in Vitis, Actinidia and Rubus. Annual fruiting wood in Prunus cerasus (cherry trees / sour cherries), Malus 'Golden Delicious', Jonagold, Jonathan. Biennial fruiting wood in most apple and pear varieties (Malus and Pyrus).



Herringbone (8)
The gesteltak should be well branched (sprung) are. If the herringbone missing, one speaks of a different branch or canceration bare branch or takverkaling.



Pruning "by foot" (11)
This means everything pruning, as smooth as possible. At high cancer-infection pressure (apple), this is undesirable.


Pruning "on foot" (12)
The remaining stump has a length of 2 to 5 cm. The eyes are not clearly visible. On the stump pruning takkraag leave.


Worn fruiting wood (druiphout) (15)
This fruit have hung. It is recognizable by its fruit fairs in apple and pear trees. Worn wood sinks usually has a weaker or no growth usually weak and sometimes mixed buds (buds + buds) in a heavy costume. This is called binge drinkers. If worn twigs really downwards speaks of druiphout.


Fruit Fair, fruit gland
This is a bulge where a pip fruit (apple / pear) has espoused. The number of fruit fairs gives an idea of ​​the previous pregnancy. From a fruit fair may develop a publicly-twig.


Rughout, rugtwijgen (9)
These unwanted branches / shoots develop on the top of the fruit branches. They come mainly from curved branches (twigs) or large pruning wounds. They are strong and vertical growing twigs.


Vergaffeling, fork
If a twig or gesteltak branching and neither dominates. So they are both equally long and thick. Heavily on one side wood gesteltak almost / as thick as the gesteltak, an vergaffeling called.


 

                 

Pruning fruit trees in the garden: winter pruning of fruit trees (apple)

Annually by your apple and pear trees to cut you a good quality of fruit annually. The health of the tree and fruit is better and the service life is longer. To correct pruning fruit trees is important for most parts to be appointed. Explanation of pruning is easier to understand and apply. Pruning always away: wild storing the rootstock, too low of branches, belly wood, vertical growing rughout and competitors. The stem and usually single central leader should grow up. Too far to the growing fruiting laterals or branches fruit is usually shortened to short twigs. Leaf Buds are pointed and narrow. Flower buds are thick (round) and occur mainly on short fruiting (Twigs from 1 to 20 cm long).


Pruning of fruit trees: Pruning a simple (low strain) apple (Malus domestica)


  1.Onderdelen of an apple tree / fruit tree


A normal fruit tree (spindle shape) consists of several major components:
Rootstock, graft, trunk (1), central leader (H.), branches or laterals (2) and fruiting (3)

NOTE: The used simple numbers (1) (2), etc. refer to the numbers as used in corresponding drawing.

See below for a detailed description of these terms. Table: "Some parts tree and pruning concepts in pome and stone fruit"

At the end of the stem and / or central leader and the leaders is a strong year twig: the verlengenis (4). In the immediate vicinity we usually have a strong twig we call competitor. (5). Usually, the competitor may be pruned either he will verlengenis replaced.

What we see clearly?

- Trunk (central leader) and laterals are firm;

- The fruiting wood is weak.


2.Waarom apple trees and other fruit trees pruning? (Purpose?)

The light should all parts of the fruit tree can reach
    
     We thus obtain annual benefits of a good quality and quantity.
    
     An open pruned tree is easier to pick.
    
     The health of the apple tree is better and the service life is longer.



3.When prune apple trees?

Young apple trees (under 4 years), it is best in the spring (March / April) pruning. Early pruning (December or January) may arise frost. See also "Fruit pruning calendar"
    
     Mature apple trees can be pruned as soon as the blade dropped. This is usually from December to March. Do not prune while daytime freezing. (Frost damage is possible).
    
     Weak growers (with a lot of mixed buttons) can be the first pruning (December or January). Strong growers (with few mixed buds), one can last pruning (March). Early fruit trees pruning promotes growth. Let pruning (April / May) inhibits the growth.
    
     Pruning preferably in dry weather. Pruning Wounds that long stay wet are very susceptible to infection by canker.
    
     Prune preferably as little or not freezing. If it is too hard freezes, the wound tissue does not grow well....


4. The pruning of a spindle shape can be reduced to the following advice:
A spindle shape is an apple / pear tree that was piramidaalvormig. (Tree Form).
    
     The central leader / intermediate branch remains simple: competitor / competitors prune (5).
    
     The main branches are apple trees (Malus domestica) previously implanted just because we get light to the central leader / trunk.
    
     Central leader and laterals (fruit branches) periodically with fruit wood lined.
    
     Pruning always laying on a knob outwardly directed, so that a more open growth occurs.

We prune the apple tree path:



The competitor (s) of the extension recesses (5). These are removed because they have an open crown stand in the way.
     - Too steep placed branches (6), intersecting, broken or abrasive branches.
     - Vergaffelingen (heavy branches of a gesteltak)
     - Death and diseased wood and inward growing branches.
     - Remove as many rugtwijgen and belly wood. Wood Fruit that grows sideways, gives the best results.



         Pruning of fruit wood:

The fruiting wood is as horizontal as possible to the main branches (7) and in top view the appearance of a fishbone (8).

     Prune away: the fruiting wood that is too strong, on top of the main branches {rughout} (9) because it is much light away, the fruiting wood on the bottom of the main branches {belly wood} (1O) because it is too little light receiving.

     - The pruning of a branch or twig can happen "by foot" (11) as the gesteltak sufficiently covered with fruit wood or "on foot" (= targeted stub) (12) if we new, weak fruiting wishes at the point of pruning.
    
     - A special case: many strong twigs, we will remove some twigs, while the rest are deflected into the horizontal position (13).
    
     - Too long (frame) branch pruning best we return to a lower standing branch with the desired direction (14)
    
     - Worn, drooping fruit wood we must rejuvenate the pruning to a well placed twig, at the bend (l5)
    
     - It is obvious that we are all sick, dead or injured fruiting wood removal. (For example, the wood is affected by canker.)


  

Picea omorika of Servische spar

Serbian spruce Picea omorika and is often bought as a blue-green Christmas tree
Picea omorika of the Serbian spruce. The most beautiful and longest lasting Christmas tree.

A fairly small and compact upright spruce. With its drooping branches, it is also a very graceful tree. Needles are green on top and blue on the bottom so the tree is bluish appearance. The glossy, flattened needles are 2 to 3 inches long and 2 to 3 mm wide. They are blunt so they do not sting.
It’s a fast grower in the garden to 8 to 10 m high.
The Serbian spruce needles retain much better than ordinary green spruce. The Picea omorika is often planted in gardens as elegant and individual plant next to the beautiful blue color appears in older plants also another outstanding brown cones. These are 3 to 6 cm long and purplish in the beginning and then grows, brown color.

The Picea omorika is resistant to air pollution. Furthermore, it is a fir which, unlike most other conifers or thrives in alkaline soil.
Latin name: Picea omorika
Dutch name: Serbian spruce
Provenance: from Serbia and Bosnia
Type: Conifer
Family: Pine Family (Pinaceae)
Color: blue-green needles
Location: Sun to partial shade
Height: 30 m
Evergreen: Yes
Pests and diseases: in spring fir susceptible to aphids and spider mites in the summer

Differences between beech and hornbeam

Differences between beech and hornbeam or between a beech hedge and a beech hedge.

Difference between beech and hornbeam.
Beech and hornbeam are two native deciduous trees and because of their Dutch name often confused.
Both plants can be beautiful hedges planted. Would you like a beech or hornbeam hedge? They are very similar but if we plant a closer look there are some notable differences.
But they belong to another family, and of course have a completely different Latin name.
The beech was named as the scientific name Fagus sylvatica and belongs to the Fagaceae family or Beech. (napjesdragers which also include the oak and chestnut)
Hornbeam Carpinus betulus and belongs in the birch family Betulaceae, or the
The main differences between beech and hornbeam:
In winter the nave retains its withered leaves better than the hornbeam. This is a beech hedge round the year closed more than a hedge beech hedge. This reduces the necessary privacy and look through it and serves also as a windbreak.
In the spring, the leaves a few weeks earlier than in the hornbeam who earlier this year with fresh green state.
Hornbeam grows faster than the nave.
The hornbeam is cheaper to buy.
Hornbeam poses less demands on the ground.
Beech gets in the fall a beautiful autumn colors, from yellow to red hot. The hornbeam is bright yellow in autumn, but after the first frost makes the most of its leaves fall immediately.
The young beech leaves after pruning susceptible to burning.
Hornbeam is only a green leaf, while the beech red beech can also buy versions of Fagus sylvatica ‘Purpurea’.
Beech has a smooth edges and a smooth blade, however, has a rough hornbeam leaves with deep veins.

A hornbeam you after planting to grow to the desired height is reached. Only then can you start it at the desired height pruning.
In contrast, a beech hedge to the young buds already regulated to ensure that the hedge down well branched and as pretty close up.
The beech has high demands on the ground. It grows best on light sandy soil .. In clay soil, the result is often disappointing. To obtain a good result you should be at the plant to make sure that:
The beech likes sandy soil, not too wet, not too dry. In clay soil, the result often!
Beech has a good (re) growth is a fungus (mycorrhiza) is required. These are normally beech themselves but planting can be a special fertilizer with special fungus in it through the soil mix. With new hedges, the failure rate leading to substantially smaller! Beech NEVER before planting in a tub of water. All the essential mold on the roots rinsed otherwise! Make sure when buying that the roots are not dried out and that there is some soil on the roots.
If they hedge a long time. With proper care, even more than one person lives. By planting trees in hedges and always prune the growth of stem, crown and roots is greatly reduced.
Tip
A hedge of beech and hornbeam on either side of a curved path is called deciduous or berceau course is suitable for gardens with ample space. Such praise going to be used functionally, that is a connection. A leafy garden room corridor can connect, but also a building with a terrace for example.
How do you get the best hedge?
Both species may be one or two rows are planted, with ± 25 cm distance.
Plant in a triangular (= turns) The hedge is closer and can be cut narrower.
To maintain a high hedge, it is wise to it a conical shape. Why they shave the top and wider at the bottom narrower. This is more light on the lower part of the plant and it remains profitable for the bottom sheet to keep. Make sure that the plants used for hedges are sufficient distance so that the sunlight even on the underside of the hedge can. It is also useful to at least a foot path beside the hedge to have it be able to sprinkle some food (koekorrels) or to shear. If the hedge twice a year (June and late August) prune, you get a nice green wall.